Experiencing wine is the ultimate way to know about wine. As a sommelier and wine writer I had the privilege to visit wineries and then write about the experience. Here is one example of how I added to my expertise about wine.

THE SOMM JOURNAL | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Maria da Fonseca, however, had a different idea when he began planting indigenous grapes on a property named Cova da Periquita in Setúbal—one of his first land purchases. From the beginning, the Periquita wine was exceptional, but selling casks to taverns meant that it would be susceptible to natural oxidation or unwelcome alterations by unscrupulous owners seeking to make a little extra profit. So, for the 1850 vintage, Maria da Fonseca decided to bottle a wine that would serve as both a commitment to quality and a statement of origin.

Produced with native grapes like Castelão that thrive in Setúbal, the Periquita and Periquita Reserva labels now represent one of Portugal’s most enduring wine brands. Still popular in its home country, it’s now exported to many countries around the world, including the United States.

Accumulating Expertise

One of the driving forces behind this historic winery’s position of prominence is Domingos: A member of the family’s sixth generation, he grew up among the vines and in the cellars, where he developed a passion for all aspects of winemaking. In the late 1970s, that aforementioned “will to do more” led him to California, where he became the first Portuguese person to earn a degree in fermentation sciences from the University of California, Davis.

Upon returning home, Domingos began helping to build a long-term strategy for expanding the holdings of José Maria da Fonseca. From the José de Sousa property in Alentejo, where the tradition of fermenting grapes in talhas (clay pots) is still followed, to the far north of Portugal in Vinho Verde, these opportunities to “create something new” have lifted the winery’s products to new heights.

Domingos and his team of specialists are elevating Portuguese wines to stand among the best in the business—an effort that’s evident in José Maria da Fonseca’s purchase of a site named Quinta de Mós in the Douro Superior DOC. Of the many varieties growing there, Domingos decided to focus on 10- to 15-year-old vines— relatively young for this site—of Touriga Francesa (a floral, elegant grape officially known as Touriga Franca), Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Roriz to produce the Domini and Domini Plus wines. The 2015 vintage of the latter features 96% Touriga Francesa and 4% Touriga Nacional, resulting in a wine with complex flavors of bright red fruits, abundant minerality, and a nuttiness that finishes with balanced acid and tannins.

Giving Moscatel Its Due

Another jewel in José Maria da Fonseca’s crown is its Moscatel de Setúbal, a historic wine that’s been enjoyed by the likes of Louis XIV of France. The characteristics that set the producer’s Moscatel de Setúbal apart originate in the vineyards; within the Setúbal DOC, which was established in 1907, José Maria da Fonseca owns prime Moscatel sites that enable Domingos and his team to source some of the highest quality fruit in the region. His decades of experience in understanding the complexities of this fortified wine—which undergoes many more production steps than still expressions—only add to its strengths, and the result is so distinctive that the winery decided to brand it as Alambre, a nod to both the name of the original vineyard planted to Moscatel and the wine’s amber color.

Domingos recently visited the U.S. to introduce special aged 10, 20, 30, and 40 year old expressions of Alambre; made via careful blending of multiple vintages as old or older than their corresponding age statement. The wines showcase José Maria da Fonseca’s—and Domingos’—signature style.

Next year will mark his 40th vintage at his family’s winery, but what’s unfolding at José Maria da Fonseca goes beyond winemaking: Domingos and his team are using each vineyard, each variety, and every viticultural method at their disposal to create an artform meant to be enjoyed by enophiles the world over. SJ

The Somm-Journal is geared towards wine professionals although wine consumers who want advanced wine knowledge will benefit from a subscription to the bi-monthly publication. Use the link above to find subscription details on page 3.